Puppy Play Biting

During my time walking dogs at the local shelter I have come across numerous dogs, no longer puppies, who mouth non-stop the moment you enter their cage. Mouthing/play biting is something that puppies naturally do to play and ease the pain of teething, but if done on the wrong items (i.e. your hand or wallet) it can be very painful and destructive. Puppies who are allowed to mouthed, or even encouraged to play this way will never grow out of it, and you are left with a dog who gets excited and starts biting your hand or clothing. I've seen this with many pit bulls. I assume that their owners encouraged them to mouth when playing, or did not correct it, and the dog has grown to be an extremely intimidating dog who bites your hand when being leashed, jumps on you and grabs onto any item of clothing or skin it can get a hold of, and does not let go. This can be very scary for anyone, no matter what their experience level is. 

The key to preventing this behavior is catching it while the puppy is young. Here is a very good video that shows a technique you can use (if you don't mind sounding a little weird to people who don't know what you are doing). 

As stated in the video, this method is only useful when a puppy is still very young. So how do you stop mouthing with an older dog? Ignore, redirect, or discourage. 

When a dog starts to mouth you, you have three options, and you can use either one depending on the situation. If the dog is trying to play with you or get your attention the best thing to do is ignore your dog. Turn away from him and wait patiently until he has stopped and is ideally sitting quietly, then give him what he wants. This is also a good technique for if your dog mouths while being leashed. But be warned, this can take a lot of time and patience to achieve. 

If you are already playing with your dog, or happen to have a toy at hand, you can use that to redirect your dog to an appropriate thing to mouth, and praise him when he puts his teeth on it instead of your ski

Last would be use discouragement to get your dog to stop mouthing. If your dog is being dangerous, like biting and not letting go, I would use this before anything else. But other than the most extreme cases this should be a last resort, You can use citrus spray, compressed air, a loud noise, spray bottle etc. to correct and discourage your dog from biting. 

Other things to keep in mind is to not rough house with your dog, as this encourages using the mouth to play. Having your dog on a leash can also help you correct him every time he goes to bite you. No matter which method you choose, make sure you do not unintentionally turn it into a game, for example pulling on the leash to get it out of your dogs mouth turns the struggle into an encouraging game of tug-of-war for your dog.

And here is a dog salsa dancing...why not?

How to be a Great Dog Trainer

While taking my three dogs for their daily walks I often get comments on how well behaved they are, how calm they are, 'what amazing dogs they are', and usually jokingly throw on if I could help train their dog to be that good. The most popular comments seem to be "My dog usually is the one walking me!" "You're lucky to have such well mannered dogs." and "Wow, your hands are full."

This got me thinking... People seem to just assume that some dogs are born well behaved, and I happen to be lucky enough to have acquired three of them. But the truth is I've put a lot of time into the training of my dogs. I started from scratch, not knowing a thing, but dog training has always come pretty easily to me. So why are so many people surprised when they see three big dogs walking nicely, obviously not being forced or motivated by any tools (prong collars, muzzles etc.) by someone not physically able to use physical force for the dogs to behave? And why don't these people seem to be able to train their dogs the same way? I mean, it seems so easy and straight forward to some.
But it's not,
There are three keys to being a good dog trainer, and luckily, all of them can, to an extent, be improved if one wills them to be. So what are these three keys? Technical skills, psychological knowledge and personality are the three major factors in the separation of the good, mediocre and great dog trainer.
The obvious one is the technicalities of dog training, such as techniques, timing, consistency etc. This is the easiest type of dog training knowledge to get, as there are countless books and articles on the subject, so long as you are choosing a successful, up-to-date technique.
The second, subtler quality to a good dog trainer is knowing how a dog thinks. You can know everything in the world about dog training and know nothing about what makes a dog function, and find that your training has come to a quick halt. This aspect is also one that some people tend to have an edge over other people. If you have grown up with dogs all your life, you probably have a bit of a sixth sense as to what your dog is thinking and what goes on in a dogs mind. While we are still just scraping the surface of dog cognition, we do know some vital things about them that can help immensely with their training.
The next, and very important aspect to dog training is your personality. This may be the hardest to change, and by change I do not mean changing who you are or your whole personality. Instead, little alterations in someone's personality can greatly influence how good of a dog trainer they are, and these alterations are usually for the better. For example, a very uptight and nervous person will have trouble training a very uptight, nervous dog. Your dog feeds off of your energy, and can often read you better than you can read yourself. So take a deep breath, relax, and continue forward with a loose leash and calm mind. Another example is someone who gets frustrated easily. Frustration is a big no-no in dog training, as it usually counteracts any training you are doing, or have done, and can make the dog confused and frustrated itself. So take another deep breath and distract yourself, and come back to training once you are calmed down.
Some people are born naturals at dog training, they have the right demeanor, have grown up around dogs and have acquired a vast knowledge on dog training and cognition. Others, not so much. Which is perfectly fine, it just means they'll have to work twice as hard, but will reap twice the reward for their hard earned work when they start getting people asking them to train their dogs.
It may be more work than expected, but the reward of having a well mannered friend to follow you rain or shine, good days and bad, is so worth it.
 

Rawhide

What dog doesn't like to chew? Chewing is a natural and healthy tendency for almost every dog, but finding the right thing for your dog to chew on can be tricky. Rawhides are a very popular and cheap product that dogs seem to love, but there is some controversy as to whether or not they are really safe. Here I'll tell you about the dangers of rawhide, and let you choose for yourself whether or not it's worth the risk.
What are rawhides in the first place? Rawhides are exactly how they sound, the inner hide of a animal, usually cow. They could also come from pigs, sheep, buffalo or horse. The rawhide is soaked in a solution to remove the fur and fat. In the U.S. rawhides are usually cleaned with water or hydrogen peroxide or bleached. Outside the U.S. the rawhide is bathed in an array of chemicals for preservation. Arsenic and Formaldehyde are even used in some places. Then some are bathed in yet more chemicals for flavor.. and finally.. into your beloved pooches mouth!
With that in mind, what are the dangers of rawhides? The cheep rawhides you find at the dollar store/grocery store or wherever else have obvious dangers like chemical content and durability, as the cheep rawhides are usually either very hard or very brittle. If the hide is hard enough your dog can chip a tooth on it, or break a took completely off. If the rawhide is too brittle it can come off in sharp pieces, dangerous if ingested. But even well manufactured rawhides have their dangers. Have you ever watched a dog gulp down a treat in a few bites? This is exactly what tends to happen with some dogs when it comes to rawhides, they chew until the hide is soft and malleable, and swallow the entire thing whole. Just because your dog was able to swallow the piece of hide doesn't mean it will get through the digestive tract without getting stuck or doing some damage. It isn't uncommon for dogs to be rushed into a vet and getting emergency surgery to remove a rawhide blockage in the small intestines. Another scary possibility is for your dog to choke on the rawhide. I personally have had this happen before, and have had to put my entire hand down my dogs throat in order to get the rawhide out.
Rawhides also tend to give more sensitive dogs diarrhea or cause them to vomit. If you notice a pattern of loose stools after giving your dog rawhide, you probably have found the cause.
If, despite the risks, you decide to give your dog rawhides, make sure you invest in good ones made in the U.S. and unflavored. Rawhides do have their benefits, such as cleaning teeth and affordability. But for many dogs, the risks outweigh the benefits. Most importantly, if you do decide to give your dog rawhide, never let him chew it unsupervised. That's when accidents happen.

Bringing Home a Recently Adopted Dog, Mistakes

Rescuing a shelter dog can be very rewarding, both for you and the dog, not to mention it literally saves a life. But recent statistics show that as much as 20% of dogs adopted from shelters are returned within the first couple of weeks. There are a few common mistakes that people make when bringing a shelter dog home. Knowing and preventing these mistakes will help make a smooth transition of introducing your dog into its new home, and help stop behavioral problems before they start.

Most mistakes people make with shelter dogs is giving them too much love, freedom and items. They feel bad that the dog came from an abusive family, or had to live in a cage for weeks, so they let the dog have what it wants. But this is not what the dog needs. Moving homes is a very stressful transition for a dog, and they need rules and boundaries to feel secure in their new surroundings. So with that said, lets start. 

1. Leash up: Once your dog is safely ushered into his new home, your first inclination is to take the leash off. But this will be the first mistake you make. The leash is a very important tool for safe corrections and guidance, especially for the first couple of weeks you have your dog. Leave a short 3 to 6 foot leash attached to your dog until your dog has a good grasp of the boundaries you are going to set. This may take a few weeks, or just a few days. 
2. The couch: When we first fostered our Pointer Jake, he went straight for the couch and made himself so adorably comfortable it was nearly impossible to tell him to get off. But giving your dog free access to the couch and other items of furniture is a recipe for behavioral problems. So, take that leash I was talking about earlier, and gently lead your dog to his own bed. If he jumps back on the couch, do the same, until he gets the point and lays down on his own bed on his own, then give him lots of praise and love for doing the right thing. Do not be angry, or forcibly jerk or push your dog off the couch, as you do not know this dogs past, and he may lash out protectively, which will cause bigger problems. 
3. Giving to much attention: It's our natural inclination to bathe our dogs with love at first, but this can be overwhelming and detrimental to their mental health. Our love should be an item that they must work to get. They cannot become dependent on our every move, as this creates separation anxiety, and they cannot develop protective behaviors over us. If your dog is glued to your side, try safely tying him down in a central room of the house where he can sit and observe the ins and outs independent from you.
4. Proper exercise: If this is your first dog, you may not realize how much exercise a healthy, balanced dog requires to stay that way. Getting into a steady exercise routine, like a sixty minute walk a day, is very important to having a dog. A tired dog is a good dog. Training becomes way easier, and both you and your dog will be happier and healthier. 
5. NILIF: I have mentioned NILIF many times. Nothing In Life Is Free is a training technique that should be in place the moment your dog steps inside your house. He does not get glorious toys or treats until he knows not to become possessive, and he does not get anything, ever, unless he does something for you first.

Follow these guidelines, and you should have a happy, respectful and highly rewarding relationship with your newly adopted dog, and have no reason to ever surrender him to the pound.  

Puppy Socializing-Other Dogs

 
There is a vital stage in a puppy's life, usually starting at 8 weeks and ending anywhere from 16 weeks to a year, depending on who you talk to, called the socialization period. This is the time where you introduce a variety of new situations to your puppy so he grows into a well balanced dog who is used to most scenarios and open to new experiences. But one of the most important steps to proper socialization is often missed, that is the step of making sure your puppy feels safe and comfortable in every new situation you introduce him to. This holds especially true for socializing your puppy with other dogs.
The key to socializing is making sure every situation is as controlled as possible. Learn to read your dogs behavior, and be able to control the situation so as not to over stimulate your puppy and cause him to become fearful or aggressive. To name a few, this means no dog parks until your dog is, in my opinion, a year and a half to two years old, no introductions to dogs you do not know, or dogs that may react poorly, and no overcrowded places where people or children may crowd your puppy past it's comfort.
So how do you socialize your puppy with other dogs if you cannot introduce him to dogs on your walks or go to the dog park? If a puppy is taken away from the litter no earlier than 8 weeks, then he has already been through the critical dog socialization period with his mother and litter mates. From the time he comes home with you to the time he is about a year old, he will be just fine being socialized only with his pack. Meaning other dogs you may have in your household, and dogs of your friends and family whom you know will react properly around your puppy. Puppies do not need to be introduced to an abundance of new dogs in order to become comfortable and well socialized around members of its own kind later in life. It is more a matter of making sure your puppy does not go through a bad experience where he learns to fear other dogs. For example, you meet a dog on a trail and this dog starts to attack, playful or not, your puppy. This dog does not lay off your puppy, thus your puppy learns that submission does not work and becomes fearful and aggressive towards other dogs he meets. He wants to attack them before they can attack him. This behavior then carries on to his adulthood, and you are faced with an aggressive dog from that one bad experience.
Now this does not mean that a bad experience cannot happen to your dog ever. It just means that during a certain period of your dogs growth, the socialization period, all experiences should be safe and enjoyable.

Horse Training...What?

 

What, you may ask, does horse training have to do with dog training? As I am learning, quite a bit actually. After working with a horse trainer, and learning a thing or two myself, I wanted to stray a bit off of dog training for a bit, and look at a few parallels between horse training and dog training.
While the techniques of horse training differ greatly from that of dogs, the main idea is very similar. Of course there is timing and consistency, which are extremely important, whatever you are training, whether it be human or platypus. Motivation is also a parallel between the two, you must give proper motivation, preferably positive but not always, in order to persuade an animal much bigger than you to do something it might not necessarily want to do.
While there are many similarities, there is also a huge difference between the two animals, and therefore many important differences in their training. I find this to be very crucial information, since I cannot approach a horse with the mentality of training a dog, and it would be completely unfair to a dog if I tried training it like a horse.
For example, say I have a dog, and a horse, displaying very similar behaviors that I would like to change. That behavior is that they both refuse to walk over or on new surfaces. For a horse this may be going over obstacles, or walking on a tarp. For a dog this may be walking on hard wood floors. To someone who knows nothing about the two animals, these behaviors may seem nearly identical. But to me, they are completely different. For one, the cause of this behavior is probably not the same. The dog is scared of hard wood floors and doesn't like how it feels on his paws, while the horse just plain doesn't want to do what's asked of it, for whatever horsy reason it has (not a horse expert). Since the causes are very different, and the animals take in the world very differently, you need to have a different approach to training each.
For the dog, the approach I would try is putting rugs or towels on the floor, and tempting the dog with very very yummy treats to walk across, and over time and training sessions start to take the towels off until you can tempt your dog across the floor with less and less treats.   
For a horse, you want the behavior you want to be easy, and the refusal of doing that behavior very hard. Work the horse by making it go in circles and turn a lot, and have it's resting spot be only by the tarp. Every time the horse thinks about crossing, let him rest, the moment he starts to refuse work him hard again.
Again, very different approaches, but timing and consistency and confidence is key to both.

Indoor Games

With the rainy and snowy season upon us, we sometimes want to take a day to relax and not have to go outside to exercise our dogs. But this doesn't mean our dogs still don't need exercise. Here are a few ways to mentally and physically exercise your dog indoors so he doesn't drive you crazy when you take it easy.
Food search: As the name implies, this is where you make your dog go in a down stay while you hide pieces of dog food around the house. Make it as hard or as easy as you like, and once you're done release your dog to sniff out the food. This is great mental stimulation an can occupy your dog for awhile, depending on how well you hid the treats and how food motivated he is.
Tug is a great game to play indoors, but make sure you control the game and your dog drops the toy when you tell him to. Add some more to this game and throw the toy every now again to get your dog moving more.
Food dispensing toys are a good way to mentally stimulate your dog and keep him occupied.
Go on an outing, such as to a store that allows pets, vets office, or just a drive to get him out of the house and into new environments.
Training new behaviors or practicing old can often be just as stimulating and even more tiring than a walk is. Training makes your dog really think, and strengthens the bond between the two of you. This is a great way to exercise your dog indoors.
Have another dog come over so the two can tire each other out.
Hide and seek: this is a game where you hide in a room of the house and have your dog find you. A way to add on to this game is to have two people hiding in two different rooms, both with treats, taking turns calling the dog to them. This is a great way to enforce the recall command and get your dog moving.
Treadmills are a good way to get some of your dogs excess energy out, although some training is usually necessary to get your dog used to a treadmill.